{"id":6043,"date":"2025-08-29T17:28:31","date_gmt":"2025-08-29T17:28:31","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/cuvaricevremena.eu\/?p=6043"},"modified":"2025-11-16T17:28:55","modified_gmt":"2025-11-16T17:28:55","slug":"jedan-dan-u-toledu-velicanstvena-katedrala","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/cuvaricevremena.eu\/index.php\/2025\/08\/29\/jedan-dan-u-toledu-velicanstvena-katedrala\/","title":{"rendered":"Jedan dan u Toledu: veli\u010danstvena Katedrala"},"content":{"rendered":"\t\t
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Katedrala u Toledu zaista je ogromna. Druge rije\u010di i opisa nema. Po\u010dela se graditi 1226. godine na mjestu gdje je u vrijeme arapske vlasti bila Velika d\u017eamija, koja je pak nastala na ostacima vizigotske katedrale. Glavnina je sagra\u0111ena u narednih 270 godina, ali dogra\u0111ivala i ure\u0111ivala se jo\u0161 i u 18. stolje\u0107u. Nije ni \u010dudo, s obzirom na veli\u010dinu.<\/p>

Na prvi pogled najzanimljivija karakteristika jest da ova goti\u010dka katedrala ima samo jedan toranj. Ne zato \u0161to drugi nije bio u planu, nego zato \u0161to nisu imali novaca da ga zavr\u0161e. Kako je s vremenom taj drugi toranj (onaj dio koji je bio podignut) postao nestabilan, arhitekt Jorge Manuel Theotoc\u00f3puli, sin poznatog slikara El Greca, zavr\u0161io ga je tako \u0161to je postavio baroknu kupolu. Zato se ka\u017ee da je ova gra\u0111evina prete\u017eito goti\u010dka.<\/p>

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Pogled na glavni ulaz u Katedralu i njezine tornjeve. Fotografija: \u010cuvarice vremena.<\/figcaption><\/figure>

Me\u0111utim, pravo me je iznena\u0111enje \u010dekalo unutra. Nisam \u010dak sigurna ni da barem minimum tog do\u017eivljaja mogu prenijeti. Prvo \u0161to sam primijetila jest njezina prostranost. Mo\u017eda je prostranijim \u010dini to \u0161to nema klupa unutra i nema otvorenog pogleda prema oltaru s ulaza, odnosno oltar se ne vidi. To je ne\u0161to \u0161to do sada nisam vidjela, ali naravno, to ne zna\u010di da ne postoji.<\/p>

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Detalji iz unutra\u0161njosti Katedrale. Fotografije: \u010cuvarice vremena.<\/figcaption><\/figure>
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Katedrala ima predivne vitraje, ali ovaj mi je bio najupe\u010datljiviji. Fotografija. \u010cuvarice vremena.<\/figcaption><\/figure>

Kako onda izgleda? Kao prvo, trenuta\u010dno se ulazi s bo\u010dne strane, a ne s glavnog ulaza. Na sredini, odnosno u centralnoj la\u0111i nalaze se dva ogra\u0111ena i djelomi\u010dno zazidana prostora \u2013 jedan je glavna kapela, a drugi prostor za zbor.<\/p>

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Pogled sa sredine Katedrale prema zborskom prostoru iza kojeg se nalazi glavna kapela. Fotografija: \u010cuvarice vremena.<\/figcaption><\/figure>

Glavna kapela<\/h4>

Glavna kapela je u biti prostor gdje se odr\u017eavaju mise. Nije otvorena za posjetitelje, tako da najbli\u017ee \u0161to joj mo\u017eete pri\u0107i jest da se popnete na dvije stepenice i virite unutra kroz \u017eeljeznu ogradu. Ali oltar je fascinantan. Visok skromna 24 metra napravljen je od drveta i zlata i prikazuje slike iz Isusova \u017eivota od objave do uskrsnu\u0107a. Figure koje je na njemu nalaze izgledaju ovako iz daljine i nizine izrazito malo, ali u biti moraju biti prili\u010dno velike da bi ih se vidjelo. Apsolutno fascinantno!<\/p>

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Vrata koja onemogu\u0107uju turistima ulaz u glavnu kapelu napravljena su od bronce i mesinga te presvu\u010dena zlatom i srebrom. Nala\u017eost, njihov je sjaj s vremenom izblijedio iako i dalje izgledju impozantno. Fotografija: \u010cuvarice vremena.<\/figcaption><\/figure>
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Pogled u glavnu kapelu. Fotografija: \u010cuvarice vremena.<\/figcaption><\/figure>
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Glavni oltar nalazi se u glavnoj kapeli i jedan je od najboljih primjera \u0161panjolske gotike. Fotografija: \u010cuvarice vremena.<\/figcaption><\/figure>

Ali nije samo oltar veli\u010danstven nego i ostatak unutra\u0161njosti. Naime, s desne strane od oltara nalaze se kameni kipovi biskupa i svetaca, dok se s lijeve strane nalazi grob kardinala Mendoze, toledskog nadbiskupa koji je pomagao kraljici Isabeli Kastiljskoj i kralju Ferdinandu Aragonskom prilikom rekonkviste. Dok sam sve to gledala, mogla sam zamisliti kako je to nekada vjerojatno izgledalo, kada bi u ovoj kapeli sjedili kralj i kraljica, njihova obitelj i velika\u0161i u svojim najboljim opravama i mogli pristupiti i iz blizine vidjeti i dodirnuti ovo remek djelo. Iako realno, njima sve ovo vjerojatno nije predstavljalo ni\u0161ta toliko posebno jer su i ina\u010de bili okru\u017eeni zlatom i sjajem. Ja bih, naprotiv, bila jako sretna da sam mogla u\u0107i umjesto da virim kroz re\u0161etke u ovu divotu.<\/p>

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Grob kardinala Mendoze (lijevo) i kameni kipovi biskupa i svetaca (desno). Fotografije: \u010cuvarice vremena.<\/figcaption><\/figure>

Zborski prostor<\/h4>

Ako stojite licem okrenuti prema glavnoj kapeli, onda vam se iza le\u0111a nalazi ulaz u zborski prostor. Ovo je bilo mjesto u kojem su sjedili nadbiskup, kanonici, prebendari i kapelani.<\/p>

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Ulaz u zborski prostor nalazi se odmah preko puta ulaza u glavnu kapelu. Fotografija: \u010cuvarice vremena.<\/figcaption><\/figure>

Iako nije toliko zlatan, \u0161aren i uo\u010dljiv, definitivno i on pobu\u0111uje apsolutno po\u0161tovanje prema onome tko ga je osmislio i izradio. Uz zidove se ni\u017eu dva reda klupa za crkvene velikodostojnike, ali ono \u0161to privla\u010di pa\u017enju jesu reljefi iza i iznad tih klupa.<\/p>

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Jedna strana zborskog prostora s prikazima osvajanja Granade (prvi red), novozavjetnih osoba (drugi red, ispod arkada) te genalogijom Isusa Krista. Fotografija: \u010cuvarice vremena.<\/figcaption><\/figure>

Iznad prvog reda klupa nalazi se 120 drvenih reljefa koji prikazuju rekonkvistu, to\u010dnije osvajanje Granade, dok su iznad drugog reda prikazi razli\u010ditih osoba iz Novog zavjeta. Sve to okrunjeno je kipovima od alabastera koji prikazuju genealogiju Isusa Krista. Koliko li je samo vremena trebalo da se sve to napravi?!<\/p>

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Reljefi na naslonu stolica u zborskom prostoru. Fotografija: \u010cuvarice vremena.<\/figcaption><\/figure>
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Genealogija Isusa Krista izra\u0111ena od alabastera zapo\u010dinje s Adamom i Evom, ide oko cijelog zborskog prostora i zavr\u0161ava s Djevicom Marijom i Josipom. Fotografija: \u010cuvarice vremena.<\/figcaption><\/figure>

El Transparente<\/em><\/h4>

Jo\u0161 jedan \u201edetalj\u201d Katedrale definitivno moram spomenuti, a nalazi se iza glavnog oltara. Oni to nazivaju \u201eEl Transparente\u201d, za \u0161to pretpostavljam da bi se trebalo prevesti kao \u201eProvidnost\u201d. Za\u0161to providnost? Zbog svjetla koje kroz svod prolazi i osvjetljava tabernakul (spremnik gdje se \u010duvaju hostije) pa se on \u010dini providnim. U biti, \u201eEl Transparente\u201d je barokni oltar u punom smislu te rije\u010di jer je ba\u0161 bogato ukra\u0161en.Reklo bi se da se na njemu sva\u0161ta doga\u0111a, odnosno da je puno toga prikazano. U donjem dijelu je kip Djevice Marije s Isusom, a sa svake strane po jedan starozavjetni prikaz iz \u017eivota kralja Davida. Potom imamo kipove razli\u010ditih svetaca, pa \u010dak i kiparski prikaz Posljednje ve\u010dere. A u srcu svega toga nalazi se sunce koje zra\u010di i koje je okru\u017eeno arkan\u0111elima, an\u0111elima i oblacima.<\/p>

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\u201eEl Transparente\u201d djelo je arhitetka Narcisa Tom\u00e9a i njegovih sinova koji su ga radili od 1721. do 1732. godine. Fotografija: \u010cuvarice vremena.<\/figcaption><\/figure>

Ako sam dobro shvatila, upravo to sunce, kao simbol prisutnosti Boga koji ljudima osvjetljava put i \u017eivot, je spremnik za hostiju. Me\u0111utim, da nema jedne sitnice, ovaj oltar ne bi bio toliko poseban. Naime, Katedrala je dosta mra\u010dna unato\u010d velikom broju prozora obojenih vitrajima koji ne mogu propustiti dovoljno svjetlosti unutra. Stoga se za potrebe osvjetljenja ovog oltara na stropu probijen otvor kroz koji sun\u010deva svjetlost direktno pada upravo na taj prikaz sunca i hostiju koja s nalazi unutra pa se \u010dini da samo sunce na oltaru sja. Zaista genijalno!<\/p>

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Otvor u krovu koji propu\u0161ta svjetlost i osvjetljava \u201eEl Transparente\u201d. Fotografija: \u010cuvarice vremena.<\/figcaption><\/figure>

Ogromna zlatna pokaznica<\/h4>

Na\u017ealost, nisam stigla obi\u0107i sve kapele i zbirke koje se \u010duvaju unutar ove Katedrale, jednostavno nisam imala vremena. Me\u0111utim, jedan umjetni\u010dki predmet sam vidjela. Zove se monstranca, odnosno pokaznica i u nju se u posebno odre\u0111en prostor stavi hostija te na Tijelovo u procesiji nosi cijelim Toledom. Napravljena je od 5.600 dijelova, 250 kipi\u0107a, a sve je to spojeno s oko 7.500 vijaka. Materijal? Ma prava sitnica. Ovo dva i pol metra visoko \u010dudo tada\u0161njeg obrtni\u0161tva ima u sebi 183 kilograma srebra, 18 kilograma zlata te brojne bisere, smaragde i drugo drago kamenje.<\/p>

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Pokaznicu je u 16. stolje\u0107u napravio njema\u010dki zlatar Enrique de Arfe, a stoli\u0107 na kojem se nalazi dizajnirao je u 18. stolje\u0107u Narciso Tom\u00e9. Fotografija: \u010cuvarice vremena.<\/figcaption><\/figure>

No ono zbog \u010dega mi je ovaj vrijedan umjetni\u010dki predmet najvi\u0161e ostao u sje\u0107anju jest upravo pri\u010da oko procesije za Tijelovo. Naime, svake godine biraju se \u010detiri mu\u0161karca koji \u0107e ga nositi i to predstavlja ogromnu \u010dast. Ali treba to prvo iznijeti van. Naime, ulaz u kapelu sv. Ivana (San Juan) ne\u0161to je vi\u0161i od same pokaznice. \u0160to to zna\u010di? To zna\u010di da \u010detiri dobrovoljca kada je podignu na ramena, moraju kleknuti i kle\u010de\u0107i pro\u0107i kroz ulaz.<\/p>

Na\u017ealost, ulaz nije ba\u0161 kratak. Zaboljele su me noge, i ruke, i koljena, i sve samo dok sam stajala u toj kapeli i gledala malo pokaznicu, malo taj prolaz. Kad se iza\u0111e u prostor Katedrale, malo je ipak lak\u0161e jer se mo\u017ee hodati, ali onda slijedi izlazak na ulice Toleda. Sre\u0107om, po gradu je ne nose, nego guraju na kolima koja su za nju izra\u0111ena 1781. godine. I tako nekih dva sata uzbrdo i nizbrdo po slikovitim ulicama Toleda. Samo usput budi re\u010deno, Tijelovo je u Toledu veliki blagdan i prema svemu \u0161to sam \u010dula od vodi\u010da, velika turisti\u010dka atrakcija.<\/p>

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Pokaznica je visoka dva i pol metra, a te\u0161ka preko 200 kilograma. Fotografija: \u010cuvarice vremena.<\/figcaption><\/figure>

No jo\u0161 je ne\u0161to velika turisti\u010dka atrakcija u Toledu. Rije\u010d je o jednoj slici. Poga\u0111ate li o kojoj je slici rije\u010d? Odgovor potra\u017eite u sljede\u0107em nastavku.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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\u017delite li pro\u010ditati jo\u0161 ovakvih tekstova? Kliknite na Povratak u pro\u0161lost<\/a>\u00a0i u\u017eivajte!<\/h4>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t
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Popis literature:<\/h4>

All Toledo. <\/span><\/i>New edition. Escudo de oro.<\/span><\/p>

Catedral Primada Toledo.<\/span><\/a><\/p>

Livingston, Leslie. <\/span>Inside Toledo Cathedral: Complete Visitor\u2019s Guide<\/span><\/i><\/a>. The Geographical Cure.<\/span><\/p>

Lumina. Catedral de Toledo.<\/span><\/a><\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Katedrala u Toledu zaista je ogromna. Druge rije\u010di i opisa nema. Po\u010dela se graditi 1226. godine na mjestu gdje je u vrijeme arapske vlasti bila Velika d\u017eamija, koja je pak nastala na ostacima vizigotske katedrale. Glavnina je sagra\u0111ena u narednih 270 godina, ali dogra\u0111ivala i ure\u0111ivala se jo\u0161 i u 18. stolje\u0107u. Nije ni \u010dudo, […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":3,"featured_media":6067,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"site-sidebar-layout":"default","site-content-layout":"","ast-site-content-layout":"default","site-content-style":"default","site-sidebar-style":"default","ast-global-header-display":"","ast-banner-title-visibility":"","ast-main-header-display":"","ast-hfb-above-header-display":"","ast-hfb-below-header-display":"","ast-hfb-mobile-header-display":"","site-post-title":"","ast-breadcrumbs-content":"","ast-featured-img":"","footer-sml-layout":"","ast-disable-related-posts":"","theme-transparent-header-meta":"default","adv-header-id-meta":"","stick-header-meta":"","header-above-stick-meta":"","header-main-stick-meta":"","header-below-stick-meta":"","astra-migrate-meta-layouts":"set","ast-page-background-enabled":"default","ast-page-background-meta":{"desktop":{"background-color":"var(--ast-global-color-4)","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center 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