{"id":6016,"date":"2025-08-29T17:22:16","date_gmt":"2025-08-29T17:22:16","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/cuvaricevremena.eu\/?p=6016"},"modified":"2025-11-16T17:27:21","modified_gmt":"2025-11-16T17:27:21","slug":"jedan-dan-u-toledu-secuci-ulicama-toleda","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/cuvaricevremena.eu\/index.php\/2025\/08\/29\/jedan-dan-u-toledu-secuci-ulicama-toleda\/","title":{"rendered":"Jedan dan u Toledu: \u0161e\u010du\u0107i ulicama Toleda"},"content":{"rendered":"\t\t
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Dok \u0161e\u0107ete Toledom nikada ne biste pomislili da se uz njegovo ime ve\u017ee jedan ovako krvavi doga\u0111aj. Naprotiv, puno vi\u0161e ostavlja dojam jednog romanti\u010dnog grada, okru\u017een zidinama, ispunjen predivnim gra\u0111evinama te ispresijecan uskim, zavojitim i strmim ulicama koje se sastaju na pitoresknim trgovima. Pritom, kada ka\u017eem uskim ulicama, zaista to i mislim. Mnogima od njih kada prolazi automobil zauzme cijelu \u0161irinu ulice. Ni za pje\u0161aka ne ostane mjesta. Zapravo, nije to ni\u0161ta toliko posebno u odnosu na mnoge mediteranske male gradove, kao i gradove koji su zadr\u017eali svoj srednjovjekovni izgled. Osobno, Toledo me jako podsjetio na Rovinj (s razlikom da u Toledu nema mora na vidiku), ali i mnoga druga mjesta i gradi\u0107e u Istri.<\/p>

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Ulice Toleda nisu asfaltirane, nego poplo\u010dene, kao \u0161to su bile i nekada. Fotografija: \u010cuvarice vremena.<\/figcaption><\/figure>

Prema rije\u010dima vodi\u010da, nekada su ove ulice bile natkrivene, odnosno izgledale kao nekakvi tuneli. Za\u0161to? S obzirom na to da su gra\u0111ani imali prili\u010dno ograni\u010den prostor pro\u0161irivanja svojih ku\u0107a (na cestu dalje ne ide, osim ako \u017eelite susjedu u\u0107i u ku\u0107u), a i njihova visina nije mogla biti neograni\u010dena, problem su rije\u0161ili tako da bi prostor na drugom katu pro\u0161irili iznad ceste. Time su dobili ve\u0107i stambeni prostor, ali i manje sunca, manji protok zraka, pa posljedi\u010dno i vi\u0161e bolesti i zaraza. Da se taj problem rije\u0161i, u jednom je trenutku donesena odluka da se sva ta pro\u0161irenja moraju sru\u0161iti. Ipak, za uspomenu i dugo sje\u0107anje na ovakav stil gradnje, ostavili su ta pro\u0161irenja na nekoliko mjesta u gradu.<\/p>

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Pro\u0161irivanjem stambenog prostora gra\u0111ani Toleda stvarali su od svojih ulica tunele, pa su vjerojatno sve ku\u0107e u ovoj ulici imale pro\u0161irenje kao ona posljednja. Zamislite taj mrak i ustajali zrak. Fotografija: \u010cuvarice vremena.<\/figcaption><\/figure>

Posebnu pa\u017enju privla\u010de i same ku\u0107e. Dok jedan dio ima normalne ravne i obojene fasade (\u0161to i nije toliko posebno), na drugom je dijelu ostao vidljiv gra\u0111evni materijal. Iako ima onih od cigle, zanimljivije su one od obra\u0111enog i neobra\u0111enog kamena jer zaista pridonose tom starinskom, srednjovjekovnom izgledu grada. Jako mi se svi\u0111a to nisu imali potrebu ili nisu smjeli to \u201eurediti\u201d.<\/p>

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Jedan dio ku\u0107a u Toledu i danas ima svoju kamenu, \u201eneurednu\u201d fasadu pa se \u010dini vrijeme stalo i sa\u010duvalo grad u njegovom srednjovjekovnom obliku. Fotografija: \u010cuvarice vremana.<\/figcaption><\/figure>

Njihovoj dra\u017ei pridonose i drvena jednostruka ili dvostruka vrata, tako\u0111er ostatak nekih davnih vremena. Ako obratite pa\u017enju na njih, vidjet \u0107ete da neka imaju na vratima ugra\u0111ena manja vrata. Razlog tome je bio vrlo jednostavan i vezan je za samostane, crkve i pala\u010de. Naime, cilj svih tih gra\u0111evina uvijek je bio impresionirati i pokazati mo\u0107 i bogatstvo, pa su zato i vrata morala biti velika i impresivna. S veli\u010dinom je dolazila i masivnost zbog \u010dega je cijelu tu konstrukciju bilo je te\u0161ko otvarati i zatvarati, a samim time i kontrolirati. Stoga se posjetitelje obi\u010dno pu\u0161talo kroz mala vrata kao na\u010din osiguranja objekta. Jednostavno, kroz njih istodobno nisu mogle pro\u0107i dvije osobe, a u slu\u010daju napada, br\u017ee su se mogla zatvoriti. \u010cak i ako bi napada\u010d ili napada\u010di uspjeli u\u0107i, trebalo im je vremena da se provuku i time su automatski gubili na brzini i faktoru iznena\u0111enja.<\/p>

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Stara vrata na Plaza Cardenal Silecio 4. Dvostruka vrata na desnom krilu imaju ugra\u0111ena jo\u0161 jedna manja, koja omogu\u0107avaju lak\u0161u kontorlu i osiguranje ulaza. Fotoografija: \u010cuvarice vremena.<\/figcaption><\/figure>
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Ovakva srednjovjekovna vrata i danas su jako popularna, pa ih navodno bogatiji slojevi \u017eele kupiti da ih mogu staviti u vlastitim ku\u0107ama. Fotografija: \u010cuvarice vremena.<\/figcaption><\/figure>
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Po\u0161tanski sandu\u010di\u0107 ugra\u0111en u zidu ku\u0107e. Fotografija: \u010cuvarice vremena.<\/figcaption><\/figure>

Ipak, to nije sve! Osim zanimljivih fasada, ulica, vrata, po\u0161tanskih sandu\u010di\u0107a, u Toledu \u0107ete na\u0107i i najmanji prozor na svijetu. Barem tako ka\u017ee Guinnessova knjiga rekorda. Pazite, morate dobro gledati jer biste ga mogli proma\u0161iti. Naime, prozor je manji od dlana odrasle osobe. Danas ne znamo \u010demu je taj prozor slu\u017eio, a i o natpisu koji se nalazi na njegovoj donjoj strani se raspravlja. Neki ka\u017eu da pi\u0161e \u201eHvala, Alah!\u201d, dok drugi tvrde da je arapskim pismom upisana rije\u010d Talaytula, nekada\u0161nji arapski naziv za Toledo. Istinu o nastanku ovoga si\u0107u\u0161noga prozora vjerojatno nikada ne\u0107emo saznati, ali to nije ni bitno. Ovako \u0107e barem uvijek pobu\u0111ivati ma\u0161tu svakoga tko ga vidi.<\/p>

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Najmanji prozor na svijetu nalazi se na ku\u0107i iz 16. stolje\u0107a koja se zove Cas\u00f3n de Los Lop\u00e9z u Calle de la Siller\u00eda 3. Fotografija: \u010cuvarice vremena.<\/figcaption><\/figure>

Kraljevska \u0161kola za plemenite djevojke<\/h4>

U toj \u0161etnji i otkrivanju Toleda jednim sam mjestom ostala zapanjena. Ne zbog njegove ljepote, veli\u010dine i sli\u010dnoga, nego zbog njegove funkcije. Jeste li znali da je Toledo od 1551. godine imao \u0161kolu za djevojke? Ja nisam. I ne samo to \u0161to ovdje djevojkama bilo omogu\u0107eno \u0161kolovanje u vrijeme kada se generalno smatralo da im to nije potrebno, nego je \u0161kola bila usmjerena na djevojke iz siroma\u0161nijih obitelji.<\/p>

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Kraljevska \u0161kola za plemenite djevojke u Toledu osnovana je 1551. na inicijativu toledskog nadbiskupa. Fotografija: \u010cuvarice vremena.<\/figcaption><\/figure>

Inicijator ove Kraljevske \u0161kole za plemenite djevojke (Colegio Real de Doncellas Nobles) bio tada\u0161nji nadbiskup Toleda kardinal Juan Mart\u00ednez Sil\u00edceo, a ideja mu je bila da se na tom mjestu omogu\u0107i \u0161kolovanje djevojkama iz siroma\u0161nijih obitelji koje \u017eive na podru\u010dju Nadbiskupije Toledo. Da bi osigurao funkcioniranje svog projekta u budu\u0107nosti, Sil\u00edceo je \u0161kolu stavio pod trajno pokroviteljstvo nadbiskupa Toleda, a ne\u0161to kasnije \u0161panjolski kralj Filip II. tako\u0111er je postao njezin pokrovitelj i taj status ostavio u nasljedstvo budu\u0107im \u0161panjolskim vladarima.<\/p>

Obrazovni program bio je usmjeren religijski i humanisti\u010dki te je polaznice pripremao za njihovu budu\u0107u ulogu majke. Kroz njega je pro\u0161ao veliki broj djevojaka, pogotovo ako se uzme u obzir da je prestao s radom 1990. godine. \u0160kola je osiguravala miraz svojim u\u010denicama prilikom udaje, dok su one koje su se \u017eeljele zarediti i u\u0107i u samostan, mogle to uraditi bez miraza (u to vrijeme samostanima se tako\u0111er pla\u0107ao miraz u slu\u010daju zare\u0111enja djevojke). Ako bi pak umrle bez potomaka, mu\u017e je miraz morao vratiti \u0161koli. Na \u010delu \u0161kole, kao rektorica, bila je \u017eena!<\/p>

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Stara (gore) i nova (dolje) zgrada Kraljevske \u0161kole. Fotografija: \u010cuvarice vremena.<\/figcaption><\/figure>

\u0160kola je bila pro\u0161irena izme\u0111u 1900. i 1903., a tada je izgra\u0111en i zatvoreni hodnik iznad ulice koja je razdvajala staru i novu \u0161kolsku zgradu. Taj je hodnik djevojkama osiguravao siguran prolaz, a da ne moraju izlaziti, \u010dime su izbjegavale mogu\u0107nost da im se vani ne\u0161to dogodi.<\/p>

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Zatvoreni hodnik koje je spajao staru i novu \u0161kolsku zgradu. Fotografija: \u010cuvarice vremena.<\/figcaption><\/figure>

\u201eGrad triju kultura\u201d<\/h4>

Sve ove zanimljive detalje koje sam spomenula mo\u017eete na\u0107i u trima nekada\u0161njim dijelovima Toleda \u2013 \u017eidovskom, muslimanskom i kr\u0161\u0107anskom. Upravo zbog nekoliko stolje\u0107a dugog su\u017eivota ovaj se grad naziva i \u201egradom triju kultura\u201d jer su sve one obilje\u017eile njegov razvoj i njihovi su ostaci i danas vidljivi. S obzirom na to da se Toledo tijekom povijesti zadr\u017eavao unutar svojih zidina i nije ba\u0161 imao mjesta za \u0161irenje, mnoge su gra\u0111evine ostale sa\u010duvane unato\u010d promjenama vlasti i kultura, samo su promijenile funkciju.<\/p>

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Crkva San Salvador od 9. do 12. stolje\u0107abila je d\u017eamija, koja je pak bila sagra\u0111ena na rimskim i vizigotskim ostacima. Fotografija: \u010cuvarice vremena.<\/figcaption><\/figure>

Mo\u017eda jedna od najva\u017enijih ostav\u0161tina tog su\u017eivota jest grupa prevoditelja koja se popularno naziva Toledska \u0161kola za prevoditelje. Ovi prevoditelji kr\u0161\u0107anskog i \u017eidovskog podrijetla iz 12. i 13. stolje\u0107a prevodili su s arapskog na latinski jezik jezik djela anti\u010dkih autora poput Aristotela, Ptolomeja, Galena i drugih koji su ostali sa\u010duvani u arapskim prijevodima. Upravo zahvaljuju\u0107i politi\u010dkom, dru\u0161tvenom i kulturnom ozra\u010dju kakav je tijekom srednjeg vijeka vladao u Toledu, zapadna je civilizacija dobila pristup anti\u010dkim znanjima i kulturi, koja je bila za nju do tada izgubljena.<\/p>

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Detalj iz \u017eidovske \u010detvrti. Fotografija: \u010cuvarice vremena.<\/figcaption><\/figure>

Tolerancija koja je postojala i pod arapskom i pod srednjovjekovnom kr\u0161\u0107anskom vladavinom potrajala je do rekonkviste. Prvi su nastradali \u017didovi koji protjerani iz \u0160panjolske 1492., a potom i Mauri (muslimani) 1502. godine. Ipak, granice su uvijek bile bitne. \u017didovi su stanovali u svojoj \u010detvrti (i danas su sa\u010duvana vrata koja vode u njihov dio grada), muslimani u svojoj, a kr\u0161\u0107ani u svojoj, s time da je ra\u0161irenost religijskih objekata dvije potonje religije ovisila o tome koja je na vlasti.<\/p>

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Oznaka granice izme\u0111u muslimanske i \u017eidovske \u010detvrti kod Crkve San Salvador. Su\u017eivot i tolerancija u srednjem vijeku nisu zna\u010dili i mije\u0161anje stanovni\u0161tva. Fotografija: \u010cuvarice vremena.<\/figcaption><\/figure>

\u017didovska \u010detvrt imala je dakle, svoj posebni ulaz, ali ono \u0161to me odu\u0161evilo bio je prijelaz iz muslimanskog u kr\u0161\u0107anski dio. Naime, ako \u017eelite mo\u017eete i\u0107i okolo naokolo da do\u0111ete do Katedrale, ali isto tako mo\u017eete pro\u0107i kroz tajni prolaz. Realno, nije toliko tajni, ali kada se prvi puta prolazi onuda malo je te\u0161ko znati koja vrata \u0107e vas uvesti u ne\u010dije dvori\u0161te, a koja \u0107e biti prolaz koji skra\u0107uje put i vodi do toledske prvostolnice.<\/p>

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“Skrivena” vrata vode iz muslimanskog u kr\u0161\u0107anski dio Toleda. Fotografija: \u010cuvarice vremena.<\/figcaption><\/figure>

Kada se pro\u0111e kroz vrata ulazi se u jedan natkriveni dio, a onda dalje usku ulicu. Naravno, \u010dim su ovakva mjesta u pitanju odmah mi proradi ma\u0161ta. Tko je sve ovuda prolazi i po kakvom poslu? Kakve su se spletke mo\u017eda dogovarale u ovim mra\u010dnim zakutcima? Jesu li ovi zidovi svjedoci i neki zabranjenih (ne)sretnih ljubavnih pri\u010da? Utonuti u ta davna vremena uop\u0107e nije te\u0161ko na ovom mjestu. Iako, moram priznati da sam pomislila kako bi bilo super da je cijeli prolaz natkriven jer bi to definitivno pridodalo njegovoj tajnovitosti.<\/p>

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Na putu prema Katedrali. Fotografija: \u010cuvarice vremena.<\/figcaption><\/figure>

Me\u0111utim, kada sam do\u0161la do njezinog kraja, potpuno sam zaboravila na svoje misli o mra\u010dnom i tajnovitom tunelu. Jer tu me je \u010dekao prekrasan pogled na Katedralu.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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\u017delite li pro\u010ditati jo\u0161 ovakvih tekstova? Kliknite na Povratak u pro\u0161lost<\/a> i u\u017eivajte!<\/h4>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t
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Popis literature:<\/h4>

All Toledo. <\/span><\/i>New edition. Escudo de oro.<\/span><\/p>

Colegio de Doncellas Nobles de Toledo<\/span><\/i><\/a>. Cultura. Castilla – La Mancha.<\/span><\/p>

Colegio nuevo de Doncellas Nobles<\/span><\/i><\/a>. Cultura. Castilla – La Mancha.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>

Discover the Royal College of Noble Maidens in 360\u00ba<\/span><\/i><\/a>. Toledo monumental.<\/span><\/p>

El Real Colegio de Doncellas Nobles: El gran desconocido de Toledo<\/span><\/i><\/a>. Toledo a pie.<\/span>\u00a0<\/a><\/p>

Historia, Educaci\u00f3n y Arte en el Coraz\u00f3n de Toledo<\/span><\/i><\/a>. Toledo monumental.<\/span><\/p>

Pedraza Ruiz, Esperanza. <\/span>El Colegio de Doncellas Nobles: una instituci\u00f3n en inminente peligro<\/span><\/i><\/a>. Govor 21. listopada 1983.<\/span><\/p>

Tesoros arqueol\u00f3gicos y la enigm\u00e1tica pilastra visigoda de la iglesia romana de Toledo El Salvador<\/span><\/i><\/a>. Toledo monumental.<\/span><\/p>

The Smallest Window in the World.<\/span><\/i><\/a> Atlas obscura.<\/span><\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Dok \u0161e\u0107ete Toledom nikada ne biste pomislili da se uz njegovo ime ve\u017ee jedan ovako krvavi doga\u0111aj. Naprotiv, puno vi\u0161e ostavlja dojam jednog romanti\u010dnog grada, okru\u017een zidinama, ispunjen predivnim gra\u0111evinama te ispresijecan uskim, zavojitim i strmim ulicama koje se sastaju na pitoresknim trgovima. Pritom, kada ka\u017eem uskim ulicama, zaista to i mislim. Mnogima od njih […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":3,"featured_media":6036,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"site-sidebar-layout":"default","site-content-layout":"","ast-site-content-layout":"default","site-content-style":"default","site-sidebar-style":"default","ast-global-header-display":"","ast-banner-title-visibility":"","ast-main-header-display":"","ast-hfb-above-header-display":"","ast-hfb-below-header-display":"","ast-hfb-mobile-header-display":"","site-post-title":"","ast-breadcrumbs-content":"","ast-featured-img":"","footer-sml-layout":"","ast-disable-related-posts":"","theme-transparent-header-meta":"default","adv-header-id-meta":"","stick-header-meta":"","header-above-stick-meta":"","header-main-stick-meta":"","header-below-stick-meta":"","astra-migrate-meta-layouts":"set","ast-page-background-enabled":"default","ast-page-background-meta":{"desktop":{"background-color":"var(--ast-global-color-4)","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center 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