{"id":5996,"date":"2025-08-29T09:01:35","date_gmt":"2025-08-29T09:01:35","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/cuvaricevremena.eu\/?p=5996"},"modified":"2025-09-01T23:19:02","modified_gmt":"2025-09-01T23:19:02","slug":"jedan-dan-u-toledu-legenda-o-toledskoj-noci","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/cuvaricevremena.eu\/index.php\/2025\/08\/29\/jedan-dan-u-toledu-legenda-o-toledskoj-noci\/","title":{"rendered":"Jedan dan u Toledu: legenda o toledskoj no\u0107i"},"content":{"rendered":"\t\t
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Odmah na po\u010detku moram re\u0107i da jedan dan proveden u Toledu nije ni pribli\u017eno dovoljan da bi se razgledalo i u\u017eivalo u tom \u0161panjolskom gradu. U mom slu\u010daju zapravo nije bio ni jedan cijeli dan, nego otprilike 8 sati, koliko je trajao izlet u sklopu mog putovanja u Madrid. Da budem potpuno iskrena, vrlo bih rado mijenjala trenuta\u010dni \u0161panjolski glavni grad za onaj biv\u0161i, Toledo je zaista predivan. Smjestio se na uzvisini iznad rijeke Tajo i ve\u0107 pogled na tu staru fortifikaciju ostavlja bez daha. Nije velik, ali mislim da bih sate i dane mogla provesti tamo istra\u017euju\u0107i njegove zakutke i tajne.<\/p>

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Rimski povjesni\u010dar Tit Livije opisao je Toledo kao mali grad, ali dobro utvr\u0111en i osiguran svojim polo\u017eajem. Stari dio grada od 1986. godine nalazi se na UNESCO-vom popisu svjetske ba\u0161tine. Fotografija: \u010cuvarice vremena.<\/figcaption><\/figure>

Ne zna se to\u010dno kada je osnoan (pretpostavlja se oko 5. stolje\u0107a prije Krista), ali ono \u0161to je poznato jest da je 193. prije Krista do\u0161ao pod vlast Rimljana. Sa seobom naroda osvojili su ga Vizigoti, te je od 6. stolje\u0107a bio glavni grad njihovog kraljevstva. Vizigote su smijeniti Arapi (Mauri), a nakon tri stolje\u0107a arapske vlasti (8. – 11. stolje\u0107e) osvojio ga je kralj Alfonso VI. i pripojio Kraljevstvu Leon kojim je vladao. Toledo tada postaje politi\u010dko i dru\u0161tveno sredi\u0161te tog kraljevstva, a kasnije i Kraljevstva Kastilja i Leon (ujedinjenje 1230. godine). Nakon ujedinjena \u0160panjolske (rekonkviste) ostao je jo\u0161 neko vrijeme glavni grad, sve dok Filip II. nije preselio dvor i dr\u017eavni aparat u Madrid 1560. godine.<\/p>

Alcazar \u2013 od vojne utvrde preko kraljevske pala\u010de i zatvora do muzeja<\/h4>

Vizurom Toleda dominira utvrda Alcazar, koja je oduvijek bila klju\u010dna obrambena to\u010dka grada. Na istome su mjestu, jo\u0161 od rimskih vremena, gra\u0111eni i ru\u0161eni fortifikacijski objekti, no velika utvrda koja je slu\u017eila kao kraljevska pala\u010da i vojni objekt sagra\u0111ena je pod arapskom vla\u0161\u0107u te je tada dobila naziv koji nosi i danas. Naime, Al-Qasr na arapskom zna\u010di utvrda.<\/p>

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Pogled na Alcazar s platoa. Fotografija: \u010cuvarice vremena.<\/figcaption><\/figure>

Tijekom povijesti Alcazar je toliko puta stradao i bio ponovno sagra\u0111en da je to nemogu\u0107e nabrojati. Imao je i mnoge funkcije. Nakon \u0161to je bio vojni i obrambeni objekt (do 13. stolje\u0107a kada nestaje arapska opasnost) i stalna ili povremena kraljevska rezidencija, sredinom 17. stolje\u0107a postao je dr\u017eavni zatvor, u 18. stolje\u0107u kraljevska ubo\u017enica, kraljem 19. stolje\u0107a vojna akademija, a danas vojni muzej.<\/p>

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Oklop iz 13. stolje\u0107a. Fotografija: \u010cuvarice vremena.<\/figcaption><\/figure>
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Peugeot Pheaton iz 1898. godine, koji je Luis Carvajal y Melgarejo, markiz od Puerto Seguro, kupio 1899. u Parizu. Ovaj automobil imao je 10 konjskih snaga i dosezao ludu brzinu od \u010dak 35 km\/h. Carvajal ga je 1903. donirao jednoj pukovniji, \u010dime je ovaj automobil postao prvo motorno vozilo \u0161panjolske vojske. Fotografija: \u010cuvarice vremena.<\/figcaption><\/figure>

Sama gra\u0111evina je izrazito impozantna i pomalo zastra\u0161uju\u0107a. Uostalom, to joj je i bio uvijek cilj – da unese strah u kosti svim neprijateljima vlasti. Me\u0111utim, veliki je problem bio \u0161to je bila pod renovacijom te je samo predvorje bilo otvoreno za javnost, no pozitivno je bar \u0161to nisu napla\u0107ivali ulaz. U svakom slu\u010daju, mogao se razgledati jedan mali dio postava s vojnom opremom u (za mene) prili\u010dno sterilnom i suvremenom okru\u017eenju, kao i rimski ostaci poput cisterne i dijela akvedukta.<\/p>

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Rimski ostaci ispod Alcazara. Vjerojatno akvadukt (gore) i stara cisterna (dolje). Fotografije: \u010cuvarice vremena.<\/figcaption><\/figure>

Alcazar je kroz stolje\u0107a bio sjedi\u0161te vlasti i vladaju\u0107ih, ali i glavni cilj gradskih pobunjenika. Jedna pobuna koja je ovdje zapo\u010dela prerasla je u legendu, a jedan specifi\u010dan doga\u0111aj vezan za nju u\u0161ao je u \u0161panjolsku frazeologiju.<\/p>

\u201ePasar una noche toledana\u201d<\/h4>

Legenda ka\u017ee da je 812. godine Toledom je upravljao mlad, ali izrazito okrutan upravitelj Jusuf ben Amru. Ubijao je sve koji su mu se na bilo koji na\u010din suprotstavili, otimao djevojke te iskori\u0161tavao svoju mo\u0107 do maksimuma. Na kraju se toliko zamjerio gra\u0111anima da su se pobunili, navalili na Alcazar, uhvatili ga i smaknuli.<\/p>

Najistaknutiji odli\u010dnici potom su poslali pismo kalifu obavje\u0161tavaju\u0107i ga o Juzufovoj vladavini i njegovom tragi\u010dnom kraju. Kada je od kalifa \u010duo za smrt svoga sina, Juzufov otac Amru zamolio je svog pretpostavljenog da ga po\u0161alje kao novo upravitelja u to podru\u010dje, \u017eele\u0107i ispraviti nepravdu koju je gradu nanio njegov sin. I zaista, iako su se gra\u0111ani u po\u010detku bojali osvete, Amru je bio upravitelj za po\u017eeljeti \u2013 po\u0161ten i pravedan, a vladao je iz svoje pala\u010de (nalazila se tamo gdje je danas Paseo de San Crist\u00f3bal) umjesto iz Alcazara koji mu je budio te\u0161ka sje\u0107anja na ubojstvo sina.<\/p>

Me\u0111utim, ispod njegove blage vanj\u0161tine snivala je osveta. A trenutak mu se pru\u017eio kada je kalifov sin, na svom putovanju, trebao stati i odsjesti na Amruovom dvoru. Amru je priredio veliku sve\u010danost te pozvao sve odli\u010dnike, pa tako i one koji su ubili njegova sina. Uske ulice grada koje su vodile prema upraviteljevoj pala\u010di bile su ispunjene kolonom gostiju koji su polako ulazili. Ali, kako bi koji u\u0161ao, stra\u017eari bi ga odveli u jedan osamljeni dio dvora i ondje mu odrezali glavu. I tako dok nisu smaknuli sve nekada\u0161nje urotnike.<\/p>

Ujutro je gra\u0111ane do\u010dekala stra\u0161na vijest i jo\u0161 stra\u0161niji prizor jer su u dvori\u0161tu bile nabacane glave i tijela pogubljenih, dok su glave najistaknutijih vo\u0111a visile na vanjskim zidinama da ih svi mogu vidjeti. Zato i danas stra\u0161nu no\u0107 ispunjenu strahom i u\u017easom \u0160panjolci nazivaju \u201etoledskom no\u0107i\u201d, odnosno ka\u017eu da su \u201eproveli jednu toledsku no\u0107\u201d (pasar una noche toledana).<\/p>

Me\u0111utim, iako ovakav prizor pobu\u0111uje osje\u0107aj strave, ulice Toleda danas izrazito su nestravi\u010dne. A \u0161to sve u njima mo\u017eete vidjeti, pro\u010ditajte u sljede\u0107em nastavku!<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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\u017delite li pro\u010ditati jo\u0161 ovakvih tekstova? Kliknite na Povratak u pro\u0161lost<\/a> i u\u017eivajte!<\/h4>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t
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Popis literature:<\/h4>

All Toledo. <\/span><\/i>New edition. Escudo de oro.<\/span><\/p>

Alonso, Juan Luis. <\/span>Una noche toledana o \u201cLa jornada del foso\u201d<\/span><\/i><\/a>. Leyendas de Toledo.<\/span><\/p>

Encyclopedia Britannica<\/span><\/i>. s. v. Toledo.<\/span><\/a><\/p>

Ferreiro, Miguel Angel .<\/span> \u00bfQu\u00e9 origen tiene la expresi\u00f3n: \u201cpasar una Noche Toledana\u201d?<\/span><\/i><\/a>. El reto historico.<\/span><\/p>

Hrvatska enciklopedija. s. v. Toledo.<\/span><\/a><\/p>

World Travel guide. s. v. Toledo.<\/span><\/a><\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Odmah na po\u010detku moram re\u0107i da jedan dan proveden u Toledu nije ni pribli\u017eno dovoljan da bi se razgledalo i u\u017eivalo u tom \u0161panjolskom gradu. U mom slu\u010daju zapravo nije bio ni jedan cijeli dan, nego otprilike 8 sati, koliko je trajao izlet u sklopu mog putovanja u Madrid. Da budem potpuno iskrena, vrlo bih […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":3,"featured_media":5998,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"site-sidebar-layout":"default","site-content-layout":"","ast-site-content-layout":"default","site-content-style":"default","site-sidebar-style":"default","ast-global-header-display":"","ast-banner-title-visibility":"","ast-main-header-display":"","ast-hfb-above-header-display":"","ast-hfb-below-header-display":"","ast-hfb-mobile-header-display":"","site-post-title":"","ast-breadcrumbs-content":"","ast-featured-img":"","footer-sml-layout":"","ast-disable-related-posts":"","theme-transparent-header-meta":"default","adv-header-id-meta":"","stick-header-meta":"","header-above-stick-meta":"","header-main-stick-meta":"","header-below-stick-meta":"","astra-migrate-meta-layouts":"set","ast-page-background-enabled":"default","ast-page-background-meta":{"desktop":{"background-color":"var(--ast-global-color-4)","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center 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